HOW DO YOU DO THAT?
TIPS AND TECHNIQUES, PART 4
ANTIQUING POLYMER CLAY – A COMPARISON OF TECHNIQUES
I had someone email me asking if I would consider doing an on-line class. The person really liked some of my techniques. Because my style is so "improve" I figured I could never do anything that structured. However I don't mind sharing my techniques. Feel free to use these techniques and make them your own. I think of polymer clay as "Adult Playdough". Play with the techniques and learn from your mistakes. Some of my favorite discoveries were from mistakes. This is the fourth post to answer my fan's questions.
Over the years I have occasionally antiqued polymer clay, so I thought I would do a test comparing different formulas. My test used seven different formulas. Remember that you can use any available color of paint. I just used the colors I had on hand. This technique is done to baked polymer clay. This photo provides a nice comparison of all the different formulas/products I used.
HERE ARE MY THOUGHTS ON EACH OF THE FORMULAS
1. Liquitex Raw Umber acrylic paint always works well. It produces a nice dark color in the recesses. The downside is that you have to work fast before it dries. It produces a nice low sheen on the clay.
2. I have always liked using a liquid clay and paint mixture as an antiquing solution. I mixed up a new batch of Liquitex Raw Umber acrylic paint with Kato Liquid Polyclay. It was about a 1:1 mixture. You can really see the difference between this and the raw umber that I used straight out of the tube for #1. The antiquing is much subtler. The advantage of this technique is that you have unlimited working time to get it just right. The downside is that the piece has to be re-baked. The result is a finish that is almost matt and has a slightly rough feel.
3. This is an old formula that I have used a lot. Unfortunately it is made with Transparent Liquid Sculpey, which is no longer available. My notes say that I used the TLS, raw umber acrylic paint and Pearl-Ex gold mica powder. The characteristics are very similar to the blend of Kato Liquid Polyclay and paint (formula #2) except that the finish using TLS is totally matt. I don’t know why the color is so different when I supposedly used the same color acrylic paint. What I really liked about using this formula is that it makes things look so much like stone. The finish is totally matt and the texture is rough. Here is an example of its use to highlight the impressions from a Celtic rubber stamp.
6. For this sample I used Golden Black Opaque Airbrush Acrylic paint. This opaque paint left a nice sheen on the clay, just like the Golden Transparent Airbrush paint. It did stain the clay a lot. I don’t know if this was a characteristic of the paint, or just because I used black.
7. This sample was done with Golden Transparent Shade Gray Airbrush paint. It has the same characteristics as the other Golden Transparent Airbrush paint used in #5.
Good luck with your own experimentation. Don’t forget to have fun.
1 comment:
Jan,
Thanks for sharing more of your wonderful hints from years of experimentation. I still say your jewelry is in a class of it's own. It is so rich and classy looking. Please consider writing a book or maybe publish some pieces of your unique styled jewelry with step by step instructions of several pieces. Thanks again.
Post a Comment